Corner cabinet fillers

When a corner cabinet sits close to another cabinet — within about three inches — VisionPlan automatically draws a filler strip bridging the gap and labels it with the measured width. You don't place the filler manually; it appears, disappears, and resizes as you drag the cabinets around. The label is what your installer needs: the exact filler width to cut.

This is a 2D plan-sheet feature. The filler renders on the canvas and on print output. It's not a separate fixture you can select, edit, or delete on its own — it's a derived rendering from the geometry of the cabinets it bridges.

When the filler shows up

The auto-filler renders from each of the corner cabinet's exposed leg ends when all of these are true:

1. The corner cabinet's neighbor is a cabinet. Candidates are any cabinet body — corner cabinets (Blind Corner, Corner w/ Lazy Susan, Upper Corner) and regular cabinets (Base Cabinet, Tall Cabinet, Pantry, Upper Cabinet). Other fixtures aren't candidates — appliances, fridges, sinks, etc. don't get filler treatment.
2. The cabinets are at the same elevation. A base corner cabinet only fillers to other base cabinets. An upper corner cabinet only fillers to other upper cabinets. You won't see a filler between a base cabinet and an upper cabinet sitting above it, even if they're physically close in plan view — they're at different heights and need to be cut separately.
3. The gap is between 1 mm and 76 mm (about 3"). Below 1 mm, the cabinets are effectively touching and no filler is drawn. Above 3", the gap is too wide for a filler strip — that's a cabinet-spacing problem, not a filler. The 3" cap matches typical residential cabinet-shop filler stock.

The expected pairing is a corner cabinet with the run of cabinets continuing along the wall away from the corner; the filler bridges that gap. The candidate logic is straight distance, so two non-corner cabinets sitting 1-3" apart at the same elevation could also produce a filler — keep cabinets either flush together or with intentional spacing if you want to avoid an unwanted filler strip.

If a corner cabinet's exposed leg has no cabinet neighbor in range, the filler search falls back to checking nearby walls within the same 3" range. The wall search also requires the wall to be on the outward side of the leg end (so a wall behind the corner doesn't trigger a filler). A wall hit produces the same filler strip, ending at the wall instead of at another cabinet. Useful when the corner cabinet is butting up against a perpendicular wall.

Base vs upper variants

The two corner cabinet variants use different filler depths:

Variant	Depth used for filler	Stock counterpart
Base corner cabinet (Blind Corner, Lazy Susan)	610 mm (24")	Base cabinets, pantry, tall cabinets
Upper corner cabinet (Upper Corner)	305 mm (12")	Upper cabinets only

The depth matters because the filler strip occupies the cabinet's depth in the gap direction. A 610 mm base filler bridges the gap at full base depth, while a 305 mm upper filler is shallower to match an upper cabinet's projection from the wall.

The elevation check uses the corner cabinet's isUpper flag (set on the Upper Corner (26") preset) and the regular cabinets' type — upper cabinets pair with upper corner cabinets, everything else pairs with base corner cabinets.

Horizontal vs vertical gaps

The same fillers work for either orientation:

• Horizontal gap — corner cabinet sits on the top wall of a kitchen, adjacent cabinet sits to one side along the same wall. The filler strip runs horizontally between them.
• Vertical gap — corner cabinet sits at a kitchen corner, adjacent cabinet sits on the perpendicular wall heading away from the corner. The filler strip runs vertically between them.

The code looks at the absolute difference in X versus Y between the two cabinet edge ends. The bigger axis wins — that's the direction the filler runs in.

The L-shape leg detection

A corner cabinet has two exposed leg ends (the two ends sticking out from the corner). VisionPlan computes those two ends using each corner cabinet's orientation flag (left vs right):

• Left orientation: horizontal leg points to the right, vertical leg points down. The exposed ends are at the top-right and bottom-left of the cabinet's bounding box.
• Right orientation: mirrored. Horizontal leg points to the left, vertical leg points down. The exposed ends are at the top-left and bottom-right.

Each leg end gets its own filler search — they're independent. So a corner cabinet with a base cabinet to its right AND a base cabinet directly below (around the corner) gets TWO fillers, one on each exposed leg.

The label

The filler strip is rendered with a colored fill plus a stroked outline (matching the corner cabinet's color), and a label at the midpoint of the gap showing the measured width in inches with one decimal place — for example 2.3". The label is hidden when the gap is under about 5 mm because it would be too small to read at any reasonable zoom level.

The label is the value to give your cabinet shop. They cut a filler strip to that width, faced the same as the cabinet door / finish.

Why the filler is automatic instead of a placed fixture

A filler isn't a kitchen component you "design" — it's a derived gap-bridge. The cabinet shop builds the cabinets to standard widths, and whatever gap remains gets filled with a filler strip cut to fit. You can't predict the filler width until you've decided where each cabinet sits.

Making the filler automatic means dragging a cabinet 5 mm closer or farther updates the filler width in real time, and you never have to remember to "add the filler" before sending the plan to the cabinet shop. The risk of an installer getting a plan without a filler width is bounded — if there's a gap that needs filling, the filler is there with its measurement.

Limits

• 3" maximum — anything bigger doesn't get a filler. If you see a gap that should have a filler but doesn't, check that the gap is actually ≤ 76 mm.
• Same elevation only — base-to-upper combinations don't filler. This is intentional.
• Cabinets only — a corner cabinet next to a fridge or a dishwasher doesn't filler, because those aren't cabinet bodies.
• Two cabinets needed (or one cabinet + one wall). A corner cabinet on its own with no neighbors and no nearby walls just renders as the corner cabinet — no filler.

Tips

• The filler color follows the corner cabinet's color, so they read as one assembly visually. If the corner cabinet is set to Maple and the adjacent base is also Maple, the filler matches.
• Drag a cabinet farther from the corner — the filler widens to track the new gap. Drag past the 3" cap and the filler vanishes; drag back into range and it returns.
• For an even cleaner look, set the corner cabinet and the adjacent cabinets to a shared color via the entity panel's Apply to All button on the color row. Filler strips inherit the color automatically.
• If you don't see a filler where you expect one, the most common causes are: gap > 3" (move the cabinet closer), elevation mismatch (one is upper, the other is base — adjust the cabinet types), or the neighbor isn't a cabinet (a fridge or dishwasher doesn't filler — replace it with a cabinet if you actually want a filler).
• The filler labels print along with the rest of the plan in the cabinetry layer. Switch off Cabinetry in the print layers panel if you want a sheet without cabinet rendering — the fillers will hide with the cabinets.